Glossary of technical terms.

Clamps

BrassA yellowish alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes including small amounts of other metals, but usually 67 percent copper and 33 percent zinc.

Bronze85% copper and 15% zinc, has a dark gold-like appearance.

Belt set: Normally three pieces: a buckle, a keeper, and the third is a piece that holds the end of the belt. Almost always in 925 silver or gold with engraving.

Engraving: To cut, carve, or etch into a block or surface.

Gold electroplateA thin layer of gold is electroplated (electrically bonded to the surface) for a rich and shiny finish.

Gold fill: Bucklemaker uses a metal plate with gold 10-20% of the thickness on top, usually at least 10 karat gold, typically bronze underneath. The gold layer must be at least 1/20 weight percent of the total combined gold and metal to be classified as gold-filled. A marking of 1/10 weight percent has a higher gold content. Intricate deep carving requires deeper depth; many times on older buckles, the 10% fill wears off with use, and you can see spots where the bronze or other materials show through.

Handmade: A crafted buckle skillfully constructed entirely by hand instead of by machine.

Hand engraved: A engraving process where the artist first traces a pattern onto a piece of silver or other material and then carves individual lines with handheld tools from that engraving pattern. No machines or mechanical stamps are used.

Overlay: The overlay is constructed from two layers of sterling silver. A design is traced onto a sheet of silver and cut out with a jeweler's saw by hand. This top design layer is then soldered to another sheet, the bottom layer, of silver. Texturing is added to the bottom layer in all the open areas of the design using a hammer and a small punch. The entire item is then hammered into its final shape, formed, and oxidized to darken the negative areas of the design. The top surface is then buffed to either a matte-like spot finish or to a mirror-like high polish.

Belts:

Liners: Uses Norwegian or Belgian back or shoulder on cow - the densest fiber.

Bevling: (As three) - get the right liner thickness. How thick is the alligator skin - compared to the cowhide used to achieve the right feel and comfort of the finished product.

Buffing: polishing of the lining

Natural lines: unpolished

Collagen: Fiber strength (tightest fiber direction) is north-south for alligator skin - every other exotic skin has collagen east-west. An alligator cut should therefore be north-south to achieve a durable product.

Die: Stamping, for example, a logo on the belt using a die.

Grinding: Hand polishing

Handrub: Even better polishing

Hand painting: Use water-based paint on the inside of holes and edges.

LimeUse water-based glue to apply the top side on the skin.

Extension: Put pieces of skin together on the feed.

Dome: Create rounded edges on belts and holders.

Handheld: Hand knitting behind goalkeepers.

Bleking: To avoid stains, marks from crawling animals, etc.

Sunglasses: Vegetable tanning

Trimming: Cut the skin into belt shape

Glazing Jack Machine: A machine that holds an agate stone used to press against a surface of cowhide for friction. The exotic leather is fed into the machine to achieve a glossy or shiny finish.