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Buckles

Brass: A yellowish alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes including small amounts of other metals, but usually 67 percent copper and 33 percent zinc.

Bronze: 85% copper and 15% zinc, has a dark gold-like appearance.

Buckle set: Normally three pieces: a buckle, a keeper and the third is a piece that holds the end of the belt. Almost always in 925 silver or gold with engraving.

Engraving: To cut, carve or etch into a block or surface.

Gold electroplate: A thin layer of gold is electroplated (electrically bonded to the surface) for a rich and shiny finish.

Gold filled: Bucklemaker uses a metal plate with gold 10-20% of the top thickness, normally at least 10 karat gold, usually bronze underneath it. The gold layer must be at least 1/20 weight percent of the total combined gold and metal to be classified as gold filled. A marking of 1/10 weight percent is higher in gold content. Intricate deep carving requires greater depth; many times on older buckles the 10% fill wears off with use, and you can see spots where the bronze or other materials show through.

Handmade: A designed buckle skillfully constructed entirely by hand instead of by machine.

Hand engraved: An engraving process where the artist first traces a pattern onto a piece of silver or other material and then cuts individual lines with handheld tools from that engraving pattern. No machines or mechanical stamps are used.

Overlay: Overlay is constructed from two layers of sterling silver. A design is traced onto a sheet of silver and cut out with a jeweler's saw by hand. This top design layer is then soldered to another sheet, the bottom layer, of silver. Texturing is added to the bottom layer in all the open areas of the design using a hammer and a small punch. The assembled piece is hammered into its final shape, formed and oxidized to blacken the negative areas of the design. The top surface is then buffed to either a satin-like spot finish or to a mirror-like high polish.

Belts:

Liner: Uses Norwegian or Belgian back or shoulder of cow - densest fiber.

Skiving: (Like wood) - get the right liner thickness. How thick is the alligator skin - compared to the cowhide used to get the right feel and comfort of the finished product.

Buffing: polishing of the lining/liner.

Natural liner: unpolished

Collagen: Fiber strength (densest fiber direction) is north-south for the alligator skin - every other exotic skin has collagen east-west. An alligator cut should therefore be north-south to achieve a long-lasting product.

Die: Stamping for example a logo on the belt using a die.

Sanding: Hand polishing

Handrub: Even better polishing

Hand painting: Use water-based paint inside holes and edge.

Gluing: Use water-based glue to attach the top side to the hide.

Splice: Join pieces of the hide together on the lining.

Dome: Create rounded edges on belts and holder.

Hand stitch: Hand stitching behind keepers.

Bleaching: To avoid stains, marks from reptiles etc.

Soleing: Vegetable tanning

Trimming: Cut the hide into belt shape

Glazing Jack Machine: A machine that holds an agate stone used to press against a surface of cowhide for friction. The exotic hide is run into the machine to get a glossy or shiny finish